Monday, April 29, 2013

VIDEO 2013 Rockshox Front Fork and Shocks Upgraded

What Is RockShox Offering in 2013 for their Shocks and Forks

(photos courtesy of bikemag.com, bikerumor.com and bikeradar.com)

With the debut of Fox's CTD handlebar-mounted suspension control system last year, RockShox had to play a little catch up. They have designed their own remote suspension control system, called the XLoc Full Sprint Remote.

(For now) The new RockShox dual hydraulic lockout is restricted to pairing with SID and Revelation XX forks, and RockShox' Monarch XX rear shock.

That isn't the only new thing from RockShox, however. While their SID and Revelation models cover a lot of the market, (SID geared to the XC crowd, 80-120mm travel, Revelation 120-150mm travel)

New for 2013, the SID and Revelation front forks were tweaked to improve their ability to smooth out the trail. Their damping mechanisms have been adjusted and improved for high and low-speed compression damping.

In addition, RockShox redesigned the rebound piston as well, incorporating their "Rapid Recovery" in both the SID and Revelation. "Rapid Recovery allows the fork to recover more quickly between consecutive bumps for better traction and control.

Next, RockShox greatly improved the Monarch's (their rear suspension system) with regard to small-bump compliance. First, they reconfigured the volume of the negative air chamber.


On top of that, Monarch RT3, XX, RL, RT and R now feature a high-volume eyelet option called HV-i: allowing for a higher volume, less progressive shocks that are lighter and less bulky. RockShox says "HV-i couples perfectly with bikes that need a little less progression, but don't need the full High Volume air can system. Lastly, RockShox is boasting new and improved seals on the shocks.

Seb Kemp of www.bikemag.com explained the last of the upgrades to the RockShox family of products — The Pike 2.0 — here. Here's a recap:

"When Fox debuted the 34 a few years back, it highlighted a gaping hole in their competitors' fork line-ups. RockShox for example, had the burly Lyrik and the much lighter Revelation, but the company needed something that cut the difference between the two and that's where the Pike fits it. The Poke features larger stanchions (as well as a stouter crown and lowers) than the Revelation, which was undergunned at the 150-millimeter travel setting when it came to particularly technical trails.

Weighing in at just a hair more than four pounds, the Pike should be popular with riders looking to add a bit of brawn to their bike's front end without also adding much in the way of weight. Since all-mountain bikes now come shod in every conceivable wheel size, the Pike is also available in 29er, 650b and 26er-compatible versions"

Check out the Pike in action in this VIDEO



Friday, April 26, 2013

Got A Creaky Crankset? Bike Making A Loud Noise You Can't Explain? Recurring Pinch Flats? Check Here For Solutions

25 Common Cycling Problems, and How to Fix Them



You fixed a puncture, and the new tube keeps going flat




If the holes in the tube are in the bottom, the rim strip may be out of position, allowing the tube to get cut by the spokes. If they're on top, there may be some small sharp object stuck in the tire. Find it by running your fingers lightly around the inside of the tire, then remove it.

A remounted tire won't sit right on the rim

Let the air out, wiggle the bad spot around, reinflate to about 30 psi, and roll the bad spot into place with your hands. By pushing the tire in toward the middle of the rim you will be able to see if any of the tube is poking out. When the tube is fully inside the tire, inflate as normal.


A patch won't stick to the glue on the tube

Apply more glue and let it dry completely, about five minutes (DO NOT BLOW ON THE GLUE) When you apply the patch, avoid touching its sticky side with your fingers.

A creaking sound from the wheels

A spoke may have loosened. If tension is uniform, the sound might be caused by a slight motion of the spokes against each other where they cross. Lightly lube this junction, wiping off the excess.

A creaking sound when you pedal

Tighten the crankarm bolts. If the arm still creaks, remove it, apply a trace of grease to the spindle, and reinstall the arm.

The large chainring flexes, and the chain rubs against the front derailleur cage.


Check for loose chainring bolts

You have removed the chainrings to clean the crankset, but now the front derailleur doesn't shift right. 

You may have installed a chainring backward. Remove the rings and put them on correctly. Usually, the crankarm bolts fit into indentations on the chainrings. Sight from above too, to make sure there's even spacing between the rings.


While trying to remove or adjust a crankarm you stripped the threads- Now you can't remove it

Ride your bike around the block a few times. The crankarm will loosen and you'll be able to pull it off.

Shifter housing rubs the frame, wearing a spot in the frame

Put clear tape beneath the housings where they rub.

Noisy sloppy shifting can't be remedied by rear derailleur adjustment

The cassette lockring might be loose, allowing the cogs to move slightly and rattle around on the hub. You need a special tool to tighten the lockring fully, but you can spin it tight enough with your fingers to ride safely home or to a stop.



The cog cassette is getting rusty

A little rust won't damage the cogs quickly, so it's not a major concern. Usually, using a little more lube will prevent additional rust, and riding will cause the chain to wear away the rust while you're pedaling.


In certain gears, pedaling cause loud skipping

There may be debris between the cogs. If you can see mud, grass, leaves, twigs, or any sort of foreign matter trapped between cogs, dig it out. It's probably keeping the chain from settling all the way down onto the cog to achieve a proper mesh. If there's no debris, a cog is probably worn out. Most often this is a sign that the chain and cassette will have to be replaced.

Front derailleur won't shift precisely to a chainring

Check that the cage is parallel to the chainrings (when viewed from above), and loosen and reposition the derailleur if necessary. If it's parallel, you probably need to adjust the high- and low-limit screws, best done by a shop.

The rear derailleur makes a constant squeaking noise

The pulleys are dry and need lubrication. Drip some light lube on the sides, then wipe off the excess.

Braking feels mushy, even though the pads aren't worn out

The cable probably stretched. Dial out the brake-adjuster barrel (found either on the caliper or on the housing closer to the lever) by turning it counterclockwise until the pads are close enough to the rim to make the braking action feel as tight as you want.

Braking feels grabby

You probably have a ding or dent in the rim. This hits the pad every revolution, causing the unnerving situation. Take your bike into the shop.

One pad drags against the rim or stays significantly closer to the rim than the other

Before messing with the brakes, open the quick-release on the wheel, recenter the wheel in the frame and see if that fixes the problem. (This is the most common solution.) If the wheel is centered but a pad still rubs, you need to recenter the brake. On most modern brakesets this is done by turning a small adjustment screw found somewhere on the side or top of the caliper. (There may be one screw on each side, as well.) Turn the screw or screws in small increments, watching to see how this affects the pad position. If you center the brake and the wheel, and a pad still drags on the rim, it probably wore unevenly from being misadjusted; sand the pads flat and recenter everything. 

With each pedal stroke you hear a click coming from the saddle

The pedal may have loosened. Tighten it.

Squealing Brakes

Wipe the rim to remove any oil or cleaning reside. If this doesn't work, scuff the pads with sandpaper or a file. Still noisy? The pads need to be loosened, then toed in; an adjustment that makes the front portion touch the rim before the back- an easy fix for a shop, a tortuous process for a first timer.

Creaking Saddle

Dip a tiny amount of oil around the rails where they enter the saddle, and into the clamp where it grips the rails. Heritage purists take note: Leather saddles sometimes creak the same way that fine leather shoes can. There's not much you can do about this.

You can never remember which way to turn the pedals

Treat the right-side pedal normally — righty-tighty, lefty-loosey. The left side pedal has reverse threads (to keep it from unscrewing during pedaling). If that's confusing, just remember this simple phrase: Back off. This can remind you that, with the wrench engaged above the pedal, you ALWAYS turn toward the back of the bike to remove the pedal. 

You installed a pedal into the wrong crankarm - The left pedal into the right arm or vice versa

You can remove the pedal, but the crankarm will have to be replaced; its threads are softer than the pedal's and are now stripped out. ALWAYS check the pedals before installing. There is usually an R for right or an L for left stamped onto the axle. 

You pulled apart your headset to regrease it, and now the headset feels tight no matter how you adjust it

The bearing retainers are probably in upside down.

If you'd rather have these issues addressed by our highly trained and experienced bike shop mechanics, drop on by.   We have a new Evansville Indiana bike shop for you folks out west.

www.schellers.com

Wednesday, April 24, 2013

*Brand New* 2014 Shimano XTR M980 Group. Carbon Tubular Wheels, Lightweight Disc Brakes




Shimano Claims Their High Performance XTR Disc Brakes is Their Lightest Ever

Could just be the Carbon Fiber Brake levers, but there's so much more to it.


Continuing the Shimano XTR legacy as the industry's original premium cross-country racing mountain bike component group, Shimano introduced a new lightweight XTR component and wheel additions that elevate the performance for elite cross country racers. For 2014, Shimano XTR M980 series will see the addition of new lighter weight hydraulic disc components, new drivetrain components including a lighter bottom bracket and more durable chain, as well as ultra-lightweight carbon tubular 29" mountain bike wheels.
The Shimano XTR M980 group is the first mountain bike component range to have two separate complete groups (race and trail). There's the rider tuned concept that allows riders to mix and match drivetrains, brake systems, wheels and pedals for the way they ride. Shimano introduces new XTR Race products specifically designed to reduce weight, increase efficiency and provide a winning edge for the world's best cross country racers.

CARBON WHEELS
Designed for and proven at World Cup and Olympic cross country mountain bike competitions, the new limited edition XTR WH-M980 carbon tubular 29" wheels set a new industry benchmark for carbon 29" wheel performance. Strongly supporting 29er geometry, Shimano is only offering the XTR WH-M980 is a 29er version.  While tubular wheels may be expensive and difficult to deal with, they offer real world tangible benefits. The way they climb, accelerate, and corner are noticeably different from traditional wheels. With no bead, the tire profile becomes more round which really changes how the tire handles. Featuring a super light weight full-carbon offset rim that tips the scales at an anorexic 290 grams and 29 spokes laced to a quick engagement freehub body for perfect traction, these wheels give away nothing. WH-M980 wheels will be offered exclusively with Shimano's splined Center Lock rotor mounting for easy and quick installation.

LIGHTEST EVER SHIMANO HYDRAULIC DISC BRAKE SYSTEM
Shimano debuts its lightest hydraulic disc brake system ever to the XTR line. Shimano concentrates on 3 things with their brake development: power, stiffness, and heat dispersion.
Shimano uses an internal power level rating system and the new XTR maintains the Shimano tradition of powerful yet manageable brake engagement. Maintaining stiffness is a key component of modulation. The new XTR has a magnesium caliper, magnesium master cylinder, and a carbon fiber brake lever. (A first for shimano!) These are lightweight, high performance brakes.



ICE TECHNOLOGIES ADVANCEMENTS FOR CROSS COUNTRY
For heat requirements, Shimano uses their ICE technology of making a rotor that has 3 layers with the center layer being aluminum to draw heat. The new finned section comes from technology developed in the SAINT line of products. So now a 160mm rotor draws/disperses as much heat as a 180mm rotor used to. The new XTR brake also has a high powered hose, two piece caliper construction, banjo bolt that flows oil and keeps the two pieces together. The SM-RT99 reduces heat by an additional 40 degrees.


The XTR hubs have been improved this year as well, with improved seals, a titanium freehub body, and QR or thru axle options. The XTR press fit bottom bracket is lighter and works better than last year. Stronger sealing and less rotational drag are a few more improvements to the the XTR system.










Monday, April 22, 2013

2013 Trek Crossrip Elite at Scheller's

The CrossRip is a chugger, not a tight and twitchy ride.

 If you're looking for a disc-equipped, cyclocross-inspired do-it-all-bike, look no further than the 2013 Trek Crossrip. It's a great option as an "all-arounder" and works great as a commuter. 



It starts with Trek's Alpha 100 Aluminum frame, and the Crossrip is nicely built and finished. The carbon-bladed, alloy steerer fork is cyclocross length so that lifts the front of the bike over what you'd expect from a road fit. The resulting position is comfort-oriented; with the stem pointing down so you can flip for an even higher front. 

You can generally tell whether a company things a CX bike will actually be used for CX by looking at the gearing and tires. On the CrossRip, you find a road compact chainset (FSA Vero) and wide cassette, and Bontrager 32mm hardcase touring tires. Other touches mark this out as more of a town bike, for example the security-conscious skewers that open with an allen key, and the urban camo paint job.

(FSA Vero Crank pictured right)

So this disc-equipped commu-tourer is a bike for a bit of everything. It's very capable on the tarmac and it's perfect for unsurfaced paths too, as the beefy Bontrager tires can shed off flints and thorns easily. Another nice feature of the CrossRip Elite is the traditional bend drop bar, which some people find to be more comfortable than the ergonomic bends on the market.



The brakes are really, really good. They are Hayes CX5 mechanical discs that work superbly: lots of power and great modulation. This control and reliability makes downhilling lots of fun. This bike is good at speed, stable and reassuring with it's direct steering. 


(internal routing pictured right)


Shifting-wise, Shimano's Sora is massively better than it's previous incarnation. There's one more ratio, but the real change is from thumbshift to proper Dual Control with the downshift behind the brake lever. Much easier to use from multiple position and lighter too. The Sora's STI shifters create a nice and flat hand area and feel comfortable on the hands. They have a smooth action when shifting and pulling the brake lever. 

In the rear there is an 11-32 cassette coupled with a 50/34 compact up front. The CrossRip also comes with rack and low rider mounts too. Bontrager's Racelite IsoZone Handlebar is comfortable in all positions and the SSR stem is quite stiff.


www.schellers.com

Wednesday, April 17, 2013

New SRAM Red Road Groupset Offers Hydraulic Disc Brakes


images courtesy of www.road.cc

A New Take On Road Bike Brakes - Hydraulic Disc and Rim Brakes from SRAM!

The Rumors have been confirmed! SRAM announced recently that their new SRAM Red Groupset will feature hydraulic disc (or rim) brakes.



Why have SRAM decided to introduce hydraulic systems for the road? They made sure to emphasize these three points in a press conference last week: power, control, and modulation.

Mat Brett with www.road.cc was able to sit down with SRAM's project manager Paul Kantor who further explains the desicion making behind the new designs.

Kantor begins by describing the ideas that went into the new design. He says that SRAM liked the concept of putting disc brakes on road bikes but weren't sure of it's benefits or draw-backs.

The guys at SRAM built a hydraulic coupler into a stem [to standard mechanical levers], put it on a steel cyclocross frame and experimented. While the hydraulic brakes lived up to SRAM's expectations, but the design was unnattractive and bulky. Their solution: make it fully integrated.

Later in the interview, Mat poses another question: If hydraulic rim brakes feel so powerful for such little effort at the lever, why would people want to go for disc brakes on the road? Kantor responds with a compelling argument: "Our hydraulic disc brake has a higher braking force at every lever force than a mechanical brake on an aluminum or a carbon rim, and more than our hydraulic rim brake. You can provide quite a bit more force for less hand effort and that's really what we like about most hydraulics. 

We think that Red mechanical and Shimano Dura-Ace mechanical brakes are pretty comparable, but with a hydraulic rim brake you are able to exceed that braking performance. On a disc brake we can create eve more force for the same lever effort. It's much more consistent wet and dry too because we are braking on a steel rotor that's consistent time and time again. That's where discs come into their own.

CEN (The European Committee for Standardization) requires that there's not more than a 20% drop off between wet and dry on a rim brake and we improve that substantially on a disc brake. It's more like a drop of 5-8% in bad conditions. Plus, it's a sealed system that's consistent over time.

You can run a rim brake engaged at about 550W for 6 minutes and you'll burst the tyre. [...] You can run a disc brake at 900W for 11 minutes and the brake doesn't boil and the tyre doesn't burst.

Once you start adding up all these testing elements you start to see more and more opportunity for a disc brake to exceed what's already out there."


You might be asking yourself: Why not just go for discs, then? 

Mat replies to that also, saying that SRAM really likes the way rim brakes ride, and that they're all about choice. They want to put many good options out there to allow the customer to make the choice. 

He says hydraulic rim brakes may eventually win out over hydraulic ones, but he doesn't think so. 

When can you afford one? Mat predicts that hydraulic disc brakes will come down in price over the next 4 years to a 105/Rival price point. He says at that point they will have to decide to either: make a fancy mechanical disc brake or see if they can push the hydraulic technology down further. 

SRAM will be selling the rotors separately. They recommend a 140mm rotor for off-road and 160mm for higher speeds on the road.

The weight is 449g per wheel (including lever, caliper, hose, and 160mm HSX rotor). The HHR caliper brake uses forged aluminum arms and a SwissSTop pad compound, and weighs in at 387g per wheel- lever, caliper, and 600mm of housing. 
The new SRAM components should be available from May to June. 

SRAM sponsored pro teams will be keen for the teams to use the hydraulic brakes, although it will be the rim version as UCI regulations don't permit discs.

Stay tuned to the blog, we will be talking more about the SRAM Red 22 groupset.

www.schellers.com


Monday, April 15, 2013

Shimano's Nick Murdick Gives You A Few Tips On Changing Brake Pads


Changing Brake Pads on Downhill MTBs. Get the Lowdown from Shimano's Nick Murdick






(watch the video HERE)

While speed and plenty of it is the name of the game for downhill riders, brakes are still an important part of a mountain bike set-up as it can help check speed when riders approach more technical parts of a trail.

In this episode of Mountain Bike Chronicles Mini, Nick Murdick of Shimano shows how team mechanics go about changing brake pads on a mountain bike with a downhill set-up.

Professional riders will replace brake pads on their bikes a number of times during a race weekend for any number of reasons.

So mechanics need to know the process of changing the pads inside out if riders are to produce optimum performances every time they take to the track to race.

Nick reveals some super pro-tips on how to perform this servicing task that can of course be used on your own-bike.
(from redbull.com)



Friday, April 12, 2013

2013 Trek Skye SL Disc Is A Real Woman's Mountain Bike!


2013 Trek Skye SL Disc is A Legend in the WSD Market


www.schellers.com


If you are a woman and you LOVE to go mountain biking, the 2013 Trek Skye SL Disc is definitely the bike for you. It’s fun, versatile, and designed to fit you right from the start. You will be confident riding this bike on or off the road, knowing that the bike is capable of handling any trail you can find. Trek uses high-performance aluminum with manipulated tube shapes to balance strength and weight. That means the frame is stiff, maneuverable, and light.




  • Frame: WSD Alpha Gold Aluminum w/semi-integrated head tube, formed down tube w/integrated gusset, formed top tube, monostay seatstay, forged dropouts w/rack & fender mounts, replaceable derailleur hanger
  • Front Suspension: SR Suntour XCM w/30mm stanchions, coil spring & preload, hydraulic lockout, WSD Rider Right spring weight, 100mm travel (14": 80mm travel)
  • Brakeset: Tektro Women's Draco hydraulic disc brakes w/160mm rotors, adjustable-reach levers
You Might also want to check out our post on The 2013 Trek Madone 6.2 or the 2013 Trek Lexa SL
Or, if you aren't sure what type of mountain bike you want to buy, check out our: Buyers Guide

Come to any of the five Scheller's Locations to see this and other great bikes!

www.schellers.com

Wednesday, April 10, 2013

2013 Trek Stache 29er Is More Ready For The Trails Than You!


Trek’s Stache is designed for "trail riding," as the marketers are wont to say. 

How convenient, I like to ride trails! The 120mm-travel Stache measures in with a 68.6 degree head angle, 17.52-inch long chainstays, and a 12.4-inch high bottom bracket. There's nothing shocking about those numbers. They represent a logical extension of Trek's 29er hardtail geometry, adjusted for an additional 20mm of fork travel, compared to the company’s XC hardtails.

The frame on the all-new-for-2013 Stache was designed from the ground up. The large hydroformed main tubes, tapered head tube, 142x12mm thru-axle rear, and press-fit bottom bracket let you know that Trek built the Stache to be strong and stiff. Other highlights include ISCG tabs, dropper post routing, sloping top tube, and plenty of tire clearance


Here's another video from www.bikemag.com