Tuesday, September 24, 2013

Cyclocross Season is Rapidly Approaching

Have Some Fun in The Rain and Mud this Fall and Winter Season

Have you ever thought about riding Cyclocross?

With the Triathlon and Road Racing season coming to an end, many of us default to the cozy indoors in wake of the colder weather. If you'd rather stay out of the bad weather entirely, we have plenty of indoor fitness products to suit your needs.

Stay on the lookout for promotions on indoor fitness products from Scheller's Fitness and Cycling!

But why train in the cold?  What too many triathletes and roadies run into late in the season is a lack of motivation.  It is easier to stay inside, not train, and overeat in light of the holiday season.  The bottom line is training requires a purpose.  Your purpose to keep training through this winter can be cyclocross. 

First, don’t fear the mud.  Yes, cyclocross can get muddy…..OK... very muddy but that is not to fear.  Falling in the mud is no big deal and the most you will suffer from a crash is a mild mannered heckle from spectators.  This sport will challenge your bicycle handling skills in a new way and make you an all around better bicycle handler.

Secondly, the cost of the equipment is nothing to keep you from getting started.  For many casual cross racers, the entry-level cyclocross bike they buy seconds as a wet weather base mile bike and then also as a commuter.  Rest assured this bike will get its fair bit of use and will save that fancy road or tri bike from the salty wet muck of early spring roads.

Come to Scheller's Fitness and Cycling to see all the products we have available in the Cyclocross category, and keep your eyes open for bike and product reviews and how-to's regarding Cyclocross.

We hope to see you soon!

Friday, September 20, 2013

Tuesday, September 17, 2013

Too Many Options? Let Us Help.

Are You Getting The Most Out Of Your Saddle Bag?

There are so many different types of packs and racks and baskets and bags and pockets and zippers when it comes to bicycle accessories. Sometimes it can be difficult to gauge what size bag you will be needing. Really, it comes down to where the bag attaches to the bike, how many cubic feet it has and how aerodynamic it is.


Ride Essentials 

If you're the type of rider that just needs his/her ID, a patch kit and some cash, you won't be needing the 80 cubic inches of the Large 2014 Bontrager Seat Pack — you could stick to something like Scheller's own Seat Pack (32ci).



Phone Storage

Of course, if you want to store your phone in a bag, you might want to get a slightly larger bag such as Scheller's Tri Phone Pro Bag — which mounts to your top tube at the stem and has a see-through pouch so you can view your phone without taking it out of the bag! There are also systems to attach the phone directly to your handlebar, like the Topeak Dry Bag (Available at Scheller's in iPhone 4/4S and 5 specific models as well as generic "smart phone" model)


Maybe you like to take your bike to areas that can't be ridden through or you make it a habit of carrying your bike for whatever weird reason (just kidding) — engineers have thought up something for you as well. the Shoulder-Holder bag gives a cushion to the rider that carries his bike over streams or through non-rideable terrain. Perfect for the mountain biker, the trail rider, and even the commuter that doesn't have an elevator in his building.
Man! Stinks for that guy.


Nutrition heads and foodies will both like these bags. They allow you to quickly access your nutrition bars, gel flask, tools, or even some cookies for the long ride. Both E-Packs easily attach to the top tube using velcro straps.


Speed Concept/ Triathlon
Some of you may have read this whole article waiting for the bags I'm about to mention. Thank you. No seriously.

There is a bag made for this category that actually makes you faster. It's the Bontrager Speed Concept Draft Box: offering 46 cubic inches of room to store gear and food. With integrated aerodynamics and a secure fit, it's a must-have for triathletes. In fact, the bike is actually faster WITH the Draft Box thanks to its wing shape.

Friday, September 13, 2013

Trek's New for 2014 Madone 5.2 Actually Delivers On All-Too-Common Promises

Newer! Better! Faster! Lighter! Stiffer! Better Handling!

Just about every bike review on the internet these days make most if not all of these claims. It is a rare day that the bike is actually significantly lighter or better or faster or stiffer. "Completely redesigned" has come to mean a 1/4" difference in head tube tapering, a drivetrain being upgraded to 11 speed, or the added availability of a mechanical drivetrain.

This time — it's different. 

Trek has come into their own since the strong influence of Lance Armstrong is no longer a factor. The new Madone 5.2 (not exactly 2014 since Trek will not be announcing yearly models on any specific date) is actually redesigned.

Bikeradar was able to test the new 5.2 Madone at the US launch for 150 miles. Here's their synopsis:

"... what a different machine it is. Geometry remains the same, Trek weren't bold enough to mess with the measurements of the original, and we're glad they didn't, because the stable character of the old bike is what made it so popular. The biggest difference comes from the overall increase in stiffness, especially at the front. It's also lighter, integrating the bottom bracket, headset, fork and seatmast and using 40% fewer joints helps shed valuable grams (Trek claims it's 250g lighter)."


Now in it's fourth year, the Madone takes a new form than ever before. The top-tube now slopes in a more typical way in contrast to the forward sloping top-tube that had as many fans as it did detractors. Of course, the frame is still made of their OCLV carbon, as does the bonded, lugged construction with fewer joints, meaning less weight.

They've also renamed the range of OCLV carbon from OCLV 55, 110, 120 GSM to the simpler OLCV red (most expensive, high modulus carbon), OLCV Black (not made in the USA), and OLCV White which uses standard-modulus carbon.


Another way Trek has saved weight is by integrating the bottom bracket and getting rid of the standard BB shell completely! The BB is 90mm wide and doesn't have any external bearing cups - now the integrated bearings sit directly against the carbon shell.

 One of the most noticeable changes from the old Madone is the increase in front-end stiffness. The contoured down-tube flows from the wide BB shell and curves into an oversized head-tube. Like the bottom bracket shell, the design integrates bearings directly against and into the carbon frame. The Precision Fit Sockets (Trek's technical term) are moulded in at the same time as the tubes, which eliminates the need for secondary machining or the bonding of alloy inserts into the frame like the old Madone.

The KVF aero legs on the front fork minimize drag, and increases lateral stiffness for ultra-precise handling. To top it off, the front and rear brakes are built directly into the fuselage to keep them hidden from the wind, reducing drag. Shave off a couple grams for losing the mounting plates and bolts too!

Another HUGE change is the move to a seatmast instead of a seatpost. It doesn't need cutting to size and a cap with the seat clamp sits atop the mast and can be adjusted for height.

Not only does it allow designers to shed a bit of weight but it also does away with the need for a traditional round seat-tube. The Madone's seatmast has a slight curve to it and the design of the clamp moves the mast away from stress areas and also imparts a degree of flex for added comfort.

So this time when BikeRadar makes a claim like:


"[The new Madone's] all-round stability and unshakable front encourages an aggressive style and dares you to challenge the bike's underlying stability. Simply put, the new Madone is lighter, stiffer, and faster,"

you can bet that it's true.

Here are the rest of the specs:

Frame: 500 Series OCLV Carbon, KVF tube shape, E2, BB90, internal cable routing, DuoTrap compatible, Ride Tuned seatmast
Fork: Madone KVF full carbon, E2 asymmetric steerer, carbon dropouts
Frame Fit: H2
Wheels: Bontrager Race Tubeless Ready
Tires: Bontrager R3 Hard-Case Lite, 700x23c
Shifters: Shimano Ultegra STI, 11 speed
Front Derailleur: Shimano Ultegra, braze-on
Rear Derailleur: Shimano Ultegra
Crank: Shimano Ultegra, 50/34 (compact)
Cassette: Shimano Ultegra 11-28, 11 speed
Saddle: Bontrager Affinity 3
Seatpost: Bontrager Ride Tuned Carbon seatmast cap, 20mm offset
Handlebar: Bontrager Race Lite Aero, VR-CF, 31.8mm
Stem: Bontrager Race X Lite, 31.8mm, 7 degree
Headset: Integrated, cartridge bearings, sealed, alloy, 1-1/8" top, 1.5" bottom
Brakeset: Bontrager Speed Limit integrated
Grips: Bontrager Gel Cork tape

Tuesday, September 10, 2013

2013 Trek Rumblefish 29er Pro Offers Big-Hit Control and Small Bump Compliance

Tired of Waiting for Trek to Announce the  Newest Rumblefish? Whet Your Appetite With the 2013 Rendition.

Most full suspension air-shock bikes increase pedaling efficiency by using small-volume canisters, while at the same time giving up big-hit control. That problem is solved by the Dual Rate Control Valve shocks that have two chambers for the best combination of efficiency and simplicity. The front fork uses this technology to give you the exact suspension you will need for every inch of your ride. What does that mean? That translates to great small-bump compliance, smooth mid-stroke travel, and awesome big-hit control!

29" wheels hold momentum better than traditional 26" wheels, as well as make it easier to pass over rocks, stumps, and ruts on the trail. Some maintain that having 29" wheels make the handling sleepy. Once again, Trek has solved this problem by using G2 Geometry. That means you have precise handling and low speeds, but maintain excellent stability when at higher speeds.

The Rumblefish is incredible, and we want you to see it, ride it, and buy it. So come to any one of five Scheller's Fitness and Cycling locations to check it out. We have two locations in Lexington, two in Louisville, and one in Clarksville. You can also reach us by phone at (812) 288-6100 or visit our website at www.schellers.com.

We'll be seeing you soon!

Friday, September 6, 2013

Top 5 Reasons You May Need A Bike Fitting

A Fitting Can Take Your Riding To The Next Level — Comfortably

When you're riding, you want to be comfortable and efficient. Those are two of the main benefits that come from a professional fitting. There are a lot of people out there claiming to be experts saying that none of your weight should be on your arms, or that the handlebars should be as high as the saddle... and some of that information can be misleading. The methods and ideals that are utilized in a professional fitting come from well-researched books and studies by real experts. So why should you get a fitting anyway?


1. Riding your bike shouldn't hurt.

If it hurt for you to walk or run, you would see a Physical Therapist to find out why. Why should riding a bike be any different? If riding your bike hurts, you need precision adjustments to your position and equipment to stop the pain and keep you on your bike.

2. Prevent Repetitive Motion Injury

Biking is repetitive in nature. During a bike fit, alignment and position are optimized, which greatly enhances your riding enjoyment

3. Be More Effective

The goal in a fitting is to mate the bike with your body to help you enjoy riding comfortably and efficiently. A fitting will help you put more power to the pedals and stay balanced easier when riding.

4. Enhance Safety and Handling

If you aren't in the right position when riding, it can make it extremely difficult to reach your shifters or brake hoods, your water bottle, or your pedals. By sitting correctly on the bike, you can easily reach and maneuver all these necessary parts of your bike.

5. Improve Overall Endurance and Efficiency

The bike position is not inherently natural. Your muscles have to learn how to be efficient on the bike. When your bike fit is dialed in, your body is happier. A fit can optimize your muscular ergonomics and train neuromuscular skill of cycling biomechanics.

Everyone is different, and these recommendations only represent the norms, these are the best estimates from experts who have done experiments involving hundreds of people (and assembled by http://www.bicyclesource.com/bike/fitting). The information listed here is not intended for you to be your own fit specialist, but to give you an idea of what goes into the process.

Crank Length:

The right crank length, boils down to body size and rider style. Longer cranks have more leverage and can push large gears at a low cadence in climbing and time trialing. Riders who sprint or have a high cadence will do better with standard crank sizes. For general road racing and touring, frames smaller than 21" (54 cm) will want a 170mm crank. 21.5"-24" (55 to 51cm) will probably want cranks of 170 to 172.5mm. Those with frames over 24.5" (typically over 6'2") tend to want cranks of 172.5 to 175mm.

Cleat Adjustment:

If the ball of your foot is not over the pedal spindle, or the leg is forced into an unnatural twist, you not only compromise performance, but also risk knee injury! Here is how you adjust your cleats:

1. Grease the clean bolts and tighten moderately

2. Mount the bike, click (or strap) in

3. Adjust the position so that the ball of your foot is either directly above or slightly behind the pedal axle.

Keep in mind that cleats positioned too far forward on the shoe will generate excessive ankle movement, and can cause an Achilles strain.

Continue to make small adjustments on your pedals until you have found the spot that feels just right

Saddle Tilt:

Sometimes cyclists tilt their saddles very slightly upwards, which helps the rider put more weight on the saddle and less on the arms. Sometimes cyclist tilt their saddles downward which causes the rider to constantly slide forward or brace themselves with their arms as long as they're in the saddle. Forward-tilted saddles do not add to comfort, so set it to dead level.

Saddle Height and Position:

Perhaps one of the most important aspects of getting your fitting is the positioning of your saddle. It's important that you are not sitting too tall on the bike, as this will cause over extension in the knee. If you are sitting too low on the bike, you will lose a ton of power at the pedals and your ride will feel much more laborious.

Moving your saddle back puts you in a lower posture, which is more aerodynamically efficient, allows you to use all of your leg muscles, and is better for your back and breathing. The farther forward you are, the more total power output you have available, and farther back allows you to "ankle" more effectively and is conducive to long-haul output.

While you may be able to find the perfect saddle position on your own,  it is much better to receive a professional fitting to find that "sweet spot" for the best combination of comfort and efficiency.


While it is normal to have some of your weight resting on your arms, you need to be sure that the majority of your weight isn't resting there. Straight bars (on hybrid bikes), often nearly as high or higher than seat can limit your riding so severely that it hardly matters where you put your weight.

On the better designed mountain bikes, you note that the handlebars are very much lower than the seat, and are far enough forward to promote optimal 45 degree back posture.

Lowering your bars gives you more power, as jerking on your bars as you pedal will add to the torque generated, without the unwanted side effect of pulling the front wheel off the ground. The lower, more distant handlebars also let you move your saddle forward with respect to the pedals, which puts it in a sprinty position.

Handlebar position:

Handlebar position is generally set by the nose being directly above the handlebars when down on the hooks. The second rule of thumb is when riding in your normal position, your front hub should appear hidden by or a bit behind your handlebars. Alternately, sit on the bike in your normal riding position while someone holds it steady. Without changing your position, remove one hand from the bars and let it relax and dangle freely. WIthout stretching, rotate your arm in a large arc. As it comes back to the bar, if it comes ahead or behind your other hand, your handlebars need to be moved.

The rotation of your bars is determined solely by what is comfortable, not the bar's alignment with the earth's surface. Rotate your bars upward until you achieve a more neutral wrist position.  Let comfort be your guide to fine tune this as your body will guide you to the best position. This simple adjustment will help improve hand comfort and reduce numbness.

(A)Symmetrical legs:

For almost everyone, you'll find that one leg is longer than the other. If the difference is as slight as a half centimeter, you probably needn't worry, but at some point you'll want to make your bike fit.

If the difference is mostly in your thighs, you'll want to compensate your crank length. IF your lower legs are different, the pedal cage height is the measurement to change. Shimano makes drop-center pedals, which can be fitted to some cranksets

. The shorter leg uses a conventional pedal, possibly using an adapter in the crankset. Another option is to use orthopedic pedals set to different cage heights.

Bike Frame Sizing:

Primarily regarding road bikes (but we'll make notes about mountain bikes when appropriate, think of the bike frame along two dimensions: vertical and horizontal. The best frame size for a cyclist is as small vertically as possible, with enough length horizontally to allow a stretched out, relaxed upper body. This frame will be lighter and stiffer than a larger one and will handle better and be more comfortable than a smaller frame.

Frame size is measures from the seat lug at the top of the center of the bottom bracket. To calculate your correct frame size, divide your height by three, or subtract 9 inches from your inseam length (measured from crotch to floor in bare feet)

Regardless of the calculations, the frame should be easily straddled with both feet flat, perhaps with an inch of clearance. While a smaller frame can be compensated with a higher seat and headset (of course), a frame which is too large for adequate groin clearance should be avoided at all costs. If you can adjust the seat and bars properly with two different sized frames, the smaller one will be stiffer and absorb less of your pedaling power through flexing. As men have proportionately shorter legs than women, your frame and seat will usually be higher than a man of the same height.

For a mountain bike, we start by recommending a frame in the rance of 10-12 cm. smaller than you take in a road frame.

In many ways, though, it is more important to fit a mountain frame by the top tube length needed, rather than by the seat tube length. For instance, you might be able to get to the proper frame clearance, saddle height and neutral knee position on either a 17" or 19" frame. Yet the 19" frame will likely have a top tube that is 1" longer than the 17" frame, which changes your stem length accordingly. Or, one manufacturers 17" frame may give you a 22" top tube, while the next one's 17" gives you a 22.8"

If you are serious enough to wear clip in pedals, you may want to consider getting a professional fitting. Riding your bike should be something you do to escape the daily grind, or, for many of you, training for your next race. You may not be training for a specific goal, but who doesn't want to be more comfortable and efficient on their bike?

Keep in mind if you are getting a bike fit on your own bike, and you are not looking for a new bike, it is OK to make sure the bike fit is done on your bike. It isn't mandatory that you start your fit on another bike or sizing type bike to then transfer everything back to your bike.

If you find your comfort on the bike changes after you've left the fitting session, you need to go back to the fitter and let them know. An issue can still creep up down the metaphorical or literal road. But, if you are experiencing pain or discomfort let the fitter know right away. Getting to the fitter quickly helps ensure that they refit you for little or no cost, and helps the fitter as your fit will be fresher in their memory.


 This overview is not intended to take the place of an actual bike fit done by a bicycle fitting specialist. While using this guidance will help you fit yourself nothing beats a good bike fit from a well-trained and experienced fitter. If you want to get a bike fit hopefully this overview will help you better determine the right person for the job by enabling you to ask better questions.

Thursday, September 5, 2013

SRAM Present's Groupsets That Finally Match The Industry Standard - And Quickly Rise Above It.

SRAM's Brand New 2013 True 22 Groupsets: Red and Force

Upgrading to 11-speeds (True 22) and using hydraulic brakes (disc and rim), all the while continuing to provide quality components in the rest of the departments, including AeroGlide and Yaw Technologies.

SRAM has released two new groupsets, the Red 22 and the Force 22.

Let's start with the
SRAM Red 22

It's nice to see SRAM moving two groupsets, Red and Force, to 11-speed. But why have they decided to call them True 22?

With a double chainset and 11-speed cassette you clearly get 22 different gearing options, and SRAM says you can run the chain in the large chainring and the largest sprocket, and in the small chainring at the smallest sprocket. They don't necessarily advocate cross chaining, but it can be done.

Continuing the Yaw Technology first introduced on their last Red groupset frees you from the need to trim the front mech when moving across the cassette to avoid chainrub.

It's also worth noting that the shifters, mechs, chainsette and cassette are not compatible with 10-speed components, although Red and Force 22 components can be used interchangeably.

So how are the components?

The shift levers are the same weight as the previous model (280g) and continue to use the proprietary

Double Tap system where shifting in both directions is controlled by a paddle that sits behind the brake lever.

The rear mech also has the same weight (145g) and look from the previous design, and all of the technology from before has been carried over including the AeroGlide Pulleys designed to dampen sound, and the ceramic pulley bearings. (You can run an 11-32 tooth sprocket with SRAM's WiFLi rear mech, but it will cost you an extra 21g)

While the front mech looks similar to before, it has been modified to work as part of the True 22 system. The cage rotates slightly when you move it across so that it stays inline with the chain. This eliminates the need to adjust the front mech when you move the chain across the cassette.

SRAM points out that this front merch isn't compatible with a 10-speed system.

The chainsets (available in 53/39-tooth, 50/34, 46/36 and 52/36 in GXP, PressFit, PF30, and BB30) offer the same key features of the existing Red chainset, including Exogram cranks with hollow carbon
arms and spider.

Caliper cable operated brakes haven't been redesigned, but are still fantastic. Aerolink arms provide impressive power and there is enough clearance for use with wider wheels.

Moving on to the
SRAM Force 22

We only really need mention that the front derailleur uses Yaw Technology modified to work with an 11-speed system. The mech is compatible with both clamp (31.8mm and 34.9mm) and braze-on designs. Comes with the chain spotter also to stop you from overshifting inwards and damaging your frame. Considerably ligher than last year's the Force front merch weighs in at just 79g.

The rear derailleur also comes in two versions, short cage, and medium length compatible with WiFLi cassettes.
Now on to what you really want to know about.

Hydraulic Brakes on a Road Bike...?

As has been speculated widely over recent months, SRAM is introducing hydraulic braking as an option with these new groupsets - both disc brakes and rim brakes. They're also offering these braking options to users of 10-speed systems.

SRAM has loads of experience in hydraulic braking through their Avid brand, but rather than adapting current mountain bike braking system to the road market, they have completely redesigned things completely with road-specific calipers and piston ratios.

The HRR (Hydraulic Road Rim) brakes can be fitted to standard road frames and forks in the place of
normal mechanical brakes without the need for any special mount points.

The HRD (Hydraulic Road Disc) brakes require a disc-specific frame and forks and hubs that will take the rotor. The HRD system provides more braking power than the HRR system, and it's far less affected by wet weather. Plus with the brakes working on a steel rotor rather than on the carbon or aluminum rim, no heat is transferred to the tire or the tube.

The new SRAM Red components, including hydraulic brakes, should be available mid to late July. The S-Series 10-speed hydraulic brakes will be available at the same time.

The new SRAM Force components will be shipped about a month later.